We're going to measure some parts to make sure you've got the correct files to print. This is highly important to make sure pulleys and idlers move smoothly.
Measure your toothed idler
We support several types of toothed idlers. To find the correct spacers, measure your idler’s height and check the next page for the corresponding spacers.
Find your spacer
Print the matching spacer to your idler’s height. Each spacer has one (1) dot for 8.5mm, two (2) for 9mm, and three (3) for 10mm.
The Configurator should include the correct file for you, but we’ve also included direct links below.
Once measured, the tabs below will tell you what the printed spacer should look like, if it's hard to see click the image to enlarge it.
The tapped version threads your extrusion directly. You'll use a tap to cut threads into the end of the aluminum extrusion, creating a threaded hole for the plate to screw into. We recommend using a spiral flute tap for clean, easy tapping.
T-nut front tension plate
The T-nut version uses the front slot of your extrusion. You insert two T-nuts into the slot, then screw the plate into those T-nuts. This approach works well if you don't have tapping tools.
Nebula Frame: If you're building the Nebula Frame, you must use the tapped front tension plate. The door clearance requires the smaller profile of the tapped version.
Recommended print settings
First layer height: 0.25mm (This is required. Our parts have been designed for this.)
Layer height: 0.2mm
Extrusion width: 0.4mm, forced
Infill percentage: 40%
Infill type: Adaptive Cubic, grid, gyroid, honeycomb, triangle, or cubic
Wall count: 4
Solid top/bottom layers: 5
Seam placement: REAR
This is important as we have seam relieve features that line up with the seam placement.
Supports: NONE
Over-extrusion leads to top layers with an inconsistent finish and/or blobbing. Check the top surfaces on the stepper towers and X joints, as these are mating faces.
Light sanding with sandpaper can help remove rough surfaces and ensure a proper fit between parts.
